garment cutting

Masculine tailoring had always been affected in some degree by military uniforms. In the 1850s, an important element crept into this form of dress: increased comfort. Such an impulse would be more than revolutionary—it would be downright inspirational. Against such practicality, the occasional flare-up of dandyism had no traction. In fact, the onus was now on the would-be dandy to prove his character wasn’t in question.

The term “Broadway Brummell” or “Bowery Brummell” could be used with a curled lip. Men were groping their way toward some accommodation with how they appeared. Military trousers now acquired volume, allowing for greater ease of movement. Although a military cut and shape still held true, this small advance toward comfort was an indicator of change ahead.